SANCERRE and SWORDFISH
Sancerre is hot item in the otherwise sagging wine sector. It pairs perfectly with the "Gladiator of the Deep."
A few weeks ago, MichaelC.-- the young adult son of my my long-time BFF AndyS.-- messaged me seeking advice. He had just secured his first real job in his chosen field of marine science, and his new boss had invited him over for a swordfish dinner. He was tasked with bringing the wine... and he wanted me to recommend a wine that would make him look good. (Promising signs in a millennial-- he is hard-working and ambitious, he knew what he didn't know, and he knew the right person to ask.) The pressure was on me as well as him, but I felt honored to share his burden. I neither flinched nor hesitated.
"Head to the French white wine section at your local store," I replied, "and look for a wine called 'Sancerre'. Send me a photo of what's available, and we'll pick one out."
A surprisingly broad selection of Sancerres in a Rhode Island wine shop.
(Photo by MichaelC.)
The town of Sancerre overlooks the upper Loire, France's longest river, and boasts two famous agricultural products-- the goat cheese Crottin de Chavignol, and a Sauvignon Blanc-based vin blanc that might well be the single most perfect seafood wine on the planet. Eponymously-named Sancerre is noteworthy for its beguiling balance of minerality and delicate fruitiness that makes it practically dance on one's tongue. It is crisp enough to accompany a plate of freshly-shucked raw oysters, and yet sufficiently substantial to accompany all manner of first-rate seafood entrees-- seared sea scallops, lobster ravioli, Dover Sole Meunière, broiled salmon fillet... and boldly-flavored preparations of swordfish.
Sauvignon Blanc constitutes one-third of The Royal Sisterhood of white wine varieties (beside Chardonnay and Riesling) that yield the vast majority of the world's seriously fantastic white wines. Sauvignon Blanc performs wonderfully in France's Bordeaux region as well as numerous far-flung regions such as northern Italy, Austria, South Africa, California, and New Zealand... and yet Sancerre stands out among its international cousins for its unique deliciousness that makes whole bottles disappear with surprising alacrity.
Meanwhile, the retail wine market in general is presently suffering a huge slump as my generation of 60-somethings taper off their alcohol consumption without newly-minted 21-year-olds picking up the slack. The Wine Crash is hitting California especially hard, with cult Cabernet Sauvignons that once commanded $300 or more per bottle suddenly hitting the "secret side market" in disguise for mere nickels on the dollar. (See CamXwine.com). Every serious wine category is cratering... except, it seems, Sancerre.
I was taken aback when MichaelC. sent me the photo above of his local wine shop... FOUR different Sancerres in the $27-44 price range, plus a couple of bottles that didn't fit into the frame. The next day I started asking around-- yes, I was told, Sancerre is a red-hot category; it sells briskly... when the stores can even get it, for there have been interruptions in availability when supply temporarily falls short of demand. So why is Sancerre suddenly so popular while plenty of other excellent wines gather dust on store shelves?
The short answer-- Taylor Freaking Swift and the Jackie Kennedy Phenomenon.
In 1961, America's new First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy brought to the White House her love of all things French and a charming (Chardonnay-based) white Burgundy called Pouilly-Fuissé that she personally popularized. Six decades later, our reigning Queen of Pop Taylor Swift has similarly fueled demand for Sancerre. Yup... Tay-Tay blithely dropped the name of her favorite tipple, and the entire market shifted. (Check out this take on the topic from THE WINE SPECTATOR.) Sure, you can blame her for the inflated prices of Sancerre... or you can save quite a few bucks by exploring other Sauvignon Blancs from around the world.
NOW, ABOUT THAT SWORDFISH...
You either love swordfish, or you don't. I personally love it, enough to bring home some freshly caught, Massachusetts-market-only steaks on ice at the conclusion of my work week this time of year. If you want to learn more than you ever thought possible about the swordfish business, Atlantic hurricanes, and the sometimes tragic relationship between the two, I highly recommend reading THE PERFECT STORM: A TRUE STORY OF MEN AGAINST THE SEA by Sebastian Junger, 1997. (Order from Amazon HERE.)
Swordfish grow big... REALLY big, like over 1,000 pounds and 15 feet long big. Swordfish are caught all over the world, but the fresh early autumn catch in the North Atlantic is especially prized by seafood lovers. And yes, all swordfish is wild, not farmed.
Swordfish is sold as boneless steaks, i.e., cross-grain cuts of the loin, like a beef ribeye. Meaty, firm,
and flavorful, swordfish stands up nicely to both grill marks and bold flavors, as with this preparation with a lively mango-cilantro salsa from SAVEUR MAGAZINE.
By the way, MichaelC. was happy to report that the dinner was delightful and that everyone enjoyed the wine.
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